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The Grape
It is a generally
accepted fact that it’s
virtually impossible to
create a great Riesling
wine in Maryland due
to the state’s climate.
Riesling grapes thrive in colder climates, like those
found in upstate New York, Canada and, of course,
Eastern Europe.
So, what should a Maryland winemaker do if he
or she wants to create a high-quality Riesling-style
wine? Well, call Dr. Joseph Fiola, of course.
Fiola is an extension specialist for the University of
Maryland, doing research on a wide variety of grapes
and working closely with the state’s wine industry to
help it thrive.
One example of the type of work Fiola engages in can be found in a Riesling-style
wine that he helped Big Cork Vineyards develop.
Fiola works with grapes from around the world to discover varieties that are
both disease resistant and able to thrive in Maryland’s diverse climates. One of the
varieties he took a special interest in came from the areas in and around Russia.
“I really started concentrating on them because they did extremely well on the
[Eastern] Shore, and under difficult conditions they were making wines that were
very aromatic,” said Fiola of this particular variety of grape.
“Riesling is a variety we don’t grow very well in Maryland because it’s a little too
warm and it doesn’t develop the aromatics that it would in like the Finger Lakes or
in Canada, but we had a few of these Russian varieties that were making very, very
nice, aromatic white wines under hot conditions, so I was real excited about those,”
he said.
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M A R Y L A N D W I N E P R E S S